Meiji Jingu and Ueno Park [but a row-boat ride this time]; Should have included museums, but didn't - not our fault!!

Off and out early this morning with all good intention of visiting the Meiji Jingu shrine and some museums.

Arrived at the Meiji Jingu [shinto] shrine.  A beautiful area of nature covering approx 700,000m2 (inner precinct), gardens, and a forest of 170,000 trees numbering around 245 species, together with several Torii (Shrine gates).  We wandered around the peaceful grounds, paid our respect at the Temizuya (font) by way of the hand and mouth cleansing, then entered the shrine area.  This shrine is dedicated to Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shoken, and was established on 1 November 1920, following their deaths in 1912 and 1914 respectively.

Once we had taken in all the atmosphere of this harmonious wonder, we set off in search of the Bonsai Museum; walked around a block of buildings where it was rumoured to be (9th floor somewhere) a couple of times but to no avail.  So we gave up.  Did come across a 7-Eleven Store though, so we could get some more cash.

Decided to try option 2 - the National Photography Museum.  Once again - walked around the block without success.  Not sure what we're missing by way of signage, but there's absolutely nothing obvious to signal where these places are.... I think the Tourist Info Board are missing a trick!

Once again with aching feet, having trogged for no reason, we made our way to Ueno Park - this time to take a row boat out on the lake (it meant we weren't standing).  What a luxury just bobbing around in the sunshine, taking in the scenery.

Left the boating lake and decided to try the more established museums/galleries situated around the park - still no luck - they all seem to be closed on Monday!  Not sure if this is just a Monday thing, or whether today was some sort of holiday - we'll never know.

Gave up on the idea of a museum visit at this point and made our way to the Ameyoko street market between Ueno and Okachimachi.  It was mayhem - a loud, lively, enthusiastic and animated mix of sellers offering everything from fresh and dried fish (definately the most popular area of the market by far) to stereos, leather goods, etc.

Having had our fill of eye-popping raucousness, we made our way around the back streets of the railway line to find somewhere to eat.  Came across a truly authentic Japanese restaurant; had to take the waiter to the door and point at a picture of the food we wanted to order as no English translations were available; also ordered two glasses of Sake and were promptly served with two cups of hot green tea - oh well....
The food was served on a tray and consisted of a bowl of rice, a bowl of chicken broth, a plate of chicken with dressed salad (I had thought I was ordering sticky bbq pork?), and a small side dish containing two slices of a vegetable we didn't recognise - the colour of swede, about the size of a fat carrot, but nobbly in shape - any clues?  It was a delicious meal - eaten with chopsticks, admittedly Col used his finger to try and push some rice on only to find it stuck to him - they don't call it sticky rice for nothing!!  Total cost 1,050 yen - a real bargain!!  Got up to leave, I explained to Col how to say 'delicious', and when he used it we were given a totally blank, confused look - obviously a mispronunciation - OOoooops!  And to top it off, having paid, we left with me giving a cheery 'Konichiwa' (Hello!!).  Think we're tired!!!  Concentration is definately waning.

Back to hotel via the cake shop for an early night... need time for feet and legs to repair themselves.

Probably not one of our more successful days out!  Better luck tomorrow.

Quiet Day in Shibuya Tokyo ... Seeking Peace in a Looney Toon Party Town !

Decided to have a calmer, slower day today, with much less walking - it never happens that way though.  Made our way over to a Theatre in the Bunkamura building, Shibuya area (Theatre/Show land), with the intention of watching a play called Baikin (The Bacteria).  After queue-ing outside the ticket office with lots of other people for over half an hour and it not opening, impatience got the better of us and we gave up and instead headed off in search of a Cinema; easier said than found!

Eventually came across a Cinema called Cine Palace.  The difficulty in locating it arises because its based on the 6th and 7th floors of an office block / shopping mall, and trying to see the cinema name / advert from ground floor is quite a feat!  Looked at the billing, and decided to watch a Japanese film (it was that or Harry Potter), didn't know what to expect as it was all written in Japanese but what the heck - we're here to experience their lifestyle - not to see something we can get at home....  You can imagine my surprise when I later found out it was called 'Abacus and Sword' - and is the story of a Samurai Book-keeper!!!!  I came here to get away from work.. what a visual reminder

This is an average Sunday shopping day in the Shibuya area; there had to be more people here per square foot than we experienced in Disneyland yesterday.  It was absolutely manic as we were making our way out at 3.00pm, and the stream of people arriving from the metro showed no signs of slowing up.

This is just a demonstration of the list of shop signs you have to read on each building when trying to find a specific location.  Needless to say, we probably managed to upset a few locals each time we stopped in the middle of a walkway to look up, get a crick in our necks, only to find we still weren't at our desired spot!

Once we'd finished at the Cinema, we took a stroll around to buy some snack food for later, then made our way towards home.  Stopped off at a Japanese restaurant for dinner; had a grilled/bbq platter of mixed meats and vegetables - imagine our joy at eating the side dish of boiled shredded cabbage with chopsticks - we're really get the hang of things now.  In fact, the platter was actually so nice we ordered a second one!  Yummmm

Disneyland in Tokyo ... At Christmas !

In total contrast to yesterdays' day of art and cultural learning, today we are acting totally out of character for us and spending the day at Disneyland Resort, Tokyo.  A totally childish and indulgent way to be spending Christmas...

Packing out fast with people, children incredibly excited, lots of character hats on heads, and the smell of pancakes, popcorn and possibly chips in the air....

Below:  a video of some of the characters performing with an audience of children (and us).  Check out the rather enthusiastic child who keeps bobbing up every now and then - very into it!

Below:  some photos taken whilst watching the Disney parade [yes - we actually stood and watched the whole show!, it was incredibly cold (about 9 degrees) with a very chilly wind as Disney is built on the coast]:

 

 

Not part of the parade - Tweedle Dum and Tweedle Dee were at the exit to wave us off.

Bev - before purchasing the glittery black furry Mickey hat c/w mouse ears - out of necessity as was starting to get chilly round the ears (well, that's my excuse, and I'm sticking to it!).   Meanwhile, back to the parade...

Photo opportunity stand

The Disney Palace

You'd be proud of us....  We did several rides including the Roger Rabbit toon town cars, the 'Lovely World' boat journey, Canadian canoeing, Mississippi boat ride, and a 'Stitch' light show with animated birds, flowers, and totems. May have done more if the queues hadn't been absolutely horrendous - but then - it is Disneyland, what do you expect!!  A colourful and musical day; I can understand why kids would get hooked.  

Left Disneyland at around 3.45pm having started to get extremely cold and numb, and nipped back to Mangia Mangia for a nice Christmas dinner of pasta, and bottle of vino!  The Manager remebered us from our first visit and came to ask how we were enjoying our stay - he explained that at Disney - there are actually two resorts:  Disney Land and Disney Sea.  Obviously we know about Disney Land; Disney Sea is apparently a more adult targeted resort (whatever that means - faster/bigger rides maybe?).  He also felt it necessaary to tell us that this Sea resort sells alcohol!!!  Have we got a reputation from drinking just one bottle of wine with a meal?

Finishing off the lovely day by doing some more laundry!!  Merry Christmas Everybody...

Culture Day in Tokyo - Kabuki theatre and the Hard Rock Cafe

 Christmas Eve and we've a day of Culture booked by way of a Kabuki performance; an art form of acting where masked faces give emotion by way of voice intonation, and very little, slow movement is made. 

 

Slight blip on the metro this morning - found ourselves in the 'Women Only' carriage - OK for me, but not so for Col; realising our error, we apologised profusely and moved up a carriage asap before Col got himself arrested! Maybe there is an element of truth in the Tour Guide book rumours of perversion during rush hour?

Off we went to the National Noh Theatre to collect our tickets, waited around until 30 mins to spare, then found out at the information office we were actually at the wrong theatre.... PANIC......  £50.00/ticket and we're about to miss it!!  Dived into the first taxi we could flag down and zoomed off to the other side of town to the National Theatre Japan - 5 mins to spare before the performace started - phew.....  Honestly, how were we to know that the Kabuki performance wouldn't be held at the Kabuki Theatre?

Above:  picture of a typical Kabuki character - one of the scary, meaner ones!  

Below:  a photo of the National Noh Theatre - which we should not have been waiting at!!!  P.S.  If you look closely, you may spot a rare sighting of Col in a photo...

You're not allowed to take photos inside the Theatre once performing has started; a shame, because the costumes were really fantastic, and the face make-up for the masked appearance was incredible.  It should also be noted that the performers do not line up and take a bow at the end - I was hoping this would be my opportunity for a costumed photo, but it didn't happen.  Below is the stage area.

It has to be said, the show was absolutely amazing, and certainly an experience not to be missed.  The storyline is one of loyalty, disloyalty, love and sacrifice'.  The fight scene was particularly interesting - I've never witnessed such an inactive fight, where the samurai waved his hand (almost) to knock over the marauding enemy (who were fighting with bunches of flowers)..... and went on for 5 hours!!!!!  This was after they skipped Acts 1 and 2 at the beginning, just giving an introductory write-up in the theatre guide, started at Act 3, summarised Acts 5 and 6 by way of a story-teller, then again skipped Acts 8, 9 and 10 before going to the final Act 11.  Also, each Act contained a number of different scenes and background changes.  They perform different schedules of the Acts on different performances.  Strange how it still managed to make sense (sort of) to a non-Japanese speaking visitor.  Admittedly, there were three breaks, and had we known how long it lasted, we probably wouldn't have rushed so much to not miss the opening!  

The Theatre itself was an impressive building, with a really beautiful, art-filled interior.  The lights were like dandelion heads once turned to white puffs, but made of crystal for the ultimate shine and glitz.  I should also mention the heated seat toilet/bidet - totally unexpected!

Once we'd had our fill of Japanese culture, we made our way to a 'trendy wine bar' for a bowl of pasta; then off into town where we found a Tokyo take on the Hard Rock Cafe.  Had to go in just out of curiosity really....

The Staff were great.... really into the Christmas spirit.  Stayed for a couple of bottles, then off home (absolutely reeking of an ashtray - smoking is still allowed over here - hadn't realised how quickly we'd got used to the ban).  Needless to say, I was slightly merry, but Col got us back safely...

Elvis wannabe....

[Below:  Col was very polite and only photographed the top half of this Santa's helper - they seemd to be wearing indecently short serving outfits; felt embarrassed for the staff who had to keep taking meals upstairs!!]

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A young, trendy couple - he went to University in Manchester!

 

A great day and night out.....  Christmas tomorrow - hope Santa hasn't forgotten us.  

Tokyo Emperor Akihito's Birthday Speech, The Edo Museum and a Boat Ride Home

Our Feet are Aching, Our Backs are Stiff, but still we carry on.

Today was going to be a day for resting our feet, but as usual the day opened up ahead of us and we followed as fast as our limp plates of meat would carry us.

It was 9.30am as we entered the city centre. The sun has been glorious and in the shadows of the high office blocks the sky seems bluer than I have ever seen it. The temperature is a perfect 18 degrees and the stiff warm wind makes walking a lovely experience. We had read that the Emperor of Japan, Akihito, gives his birthday address to his subjects within the grounds of his palace on the 23rd December each year and we thought it only right that we should pop along to thank him in person for a lovely holiday.

Many thousands of us attended the first sitting at 10.30am. The organisation was amazing and also very respectful of the people (something that the UK police could learn a thing or two about). From each corner of the surrounding garden we are guided in towards the single bridge that enters the private palace grounds. The palace is beautiful in it's simplicity and show no over the top pomp that you would see in European palaces.

The mood of the crowd was one of respectful excitement. We had all been handed flags to wave on the way in by the Japanese cubs, scouts and other helpers, but it was noticable that these we not abused by the public. Only upon the opening of the interior curtains and the first step into view of the 77 year old Emperor did the grounds erupt with joyous screams and mass waving of flags. The moment that the emperor set to speak the crowd silenced and listened intently to the gracious words of an aging Emperor. Flags waved again at the end of the speech, plenty of waving from the royal family and the an orderly emptying of what seemed to be around 50'000 or more people ... in time for the next sitting in half an hours time.

Next we travelled across town to visit the Tokyo Edo Museum. A massive collection of reconstructions of different periods in Tokyo's history. You couldn't help to be drawn into the different models and architectural reconstructions that were so complex and accurate, yet hold an amazing sense of human interaction by way of the inclusion of many thousand tiny people within the models.

In all, this museum took us 3 hours to complete, including watching a professional story teller perform in front of the reconstructed Kabuki stage. (We are off to see real Kabuki tomorrow ...)

It's a shame we can't stay a little longer to experience the excitement of the opening of the Sumo season in January, but visiting the stadium and surrounding city you get a sense of its importance over here. I stood for ten minutes and managed to spot several young trainees heading off for their training massgaes, towels in hand.

After all this plodding it was time to get the crusie boat back towards home. We've got the hang of the Metro system now and can easily whizz from one side of the city to the other, but there's something nice about a boat cruise ... dozing off ;-)